2018 DOMAINE SYLVAIN MOREY PASSETOUTGRAIN
Grapes: ⅔ Pinot Noir, ⅔ Gamay
Location: Burgundy, France
Owner: Sylvain Morey
Approximate Retail Price: $32
Color: Very clean, clear and reflective with a subtle garnet hue and a strong meniscus
Aroma: Subtle yet fruity with hints of strawberry, red cherries and a mention of oak
Taste: Light fruits dance on the palate with fantastic acidity and a mouthwatering finish
In Burgundy, France, whereas most appellations – that is, designees under the nation’s appellation d’origine contrôlée system – refer to a specific area, passetoutgrain is a specific type of wine that can be produced anywhere in Burgundy, from the top of the Côte de Nuits to the bottom of the Macôn. And whereas most wines in these areas of Burgundy are usually made from a single varietal, passetoutgrain is typically made from a blend of pinot noir and Gamay.
Passetoutgrain remains something of a well-kept secret among winemakers, who often keep much of it for themselves, and rarely, if ever, would it get imported to the U.S. But thanks to the efforts of a handful of importers, passetoutgrain has made its way here. Of the three barrels produced by Sylvain Morey, 71 cases were imported to the U.S.
Morey, son of well-known winemaker Jean-Marc Morey, started his own winery – Bastide du Claux – south of Burgundy in Luberon in 2002. There, he utilized his experience as a winemaker in Burgundy while working with typical Southern France varietals such as grenache, syrah and grenache blanc. In 2014, he returned to Chassagne in Burgundy when his father retired and, in keeping with Burgundian tradition and law, divided his holdings between his children, Sylvain and Caroline. There, the former established his own domain and began making his own line of white and red Burgundies. He currently divides his time between the two wineries.
Food Pairings: This wine would pair well with medium to soft cow or goats milk cheeses, paté, sautéed mushrooms, grilled or braised red meats and baked brie.
Certified Sommelier Stanley Browne owns Robust Wine Bar in Webster Groves.
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