Amy Koheler of Dior

The days might not be getting cooler just yet, but fall is on its way. And as you dig your comfy sweaters and killer boots out of the back of your closet, don’t forget that your makeup routine might need a little tweaking, too. We asked Amy Koheler, director for Dior’s St. Louis region with Dillards, about her fall makeup outlook.

What trends are you expecting for fall?

Metallics are huge—they’re going to be everywhere, from eye colors to fabrics. Also, we’re seeing a lot of red lips on the runways. Especially when they’re paired with soft, smoky gray-colored eyes. Don’t go too dark with the eyes, or you’ll look like you’re trying too hard.

A lot of people think they can’t wear red, but there’s a red out there for everybody. If you find one you like, but you still think it’s too bold, mix it with some lip balm to make it a less intense color. People also think they can’t wear metallics because they crease, which sometimes enhances lines. A tip for doing a metallic eye shadow is to just concentrate it in the middle of the eye, over the iris. It will give you a little twinkle without being too much. But wherever you use it, the key is not to wear all metallic—choose one piece.

You do a lot of makeup for commercial projects, like photo shoots and film work. How is that different from what you would do for a typical client?

The lighting is going to be completely different in film and on photo shoots. So the makeup looks more dramatic in-person than on-camera—it can look unnatural in-person. Whatever you do on camera, it would be toned down for a regular day.

That type of work is so fun to do. You work will all kinds of different people—some are so laid back and others have a certain vision and are very direct and precise about what they want. And you get to do things you would never get to do otherwise—like prosthetics, or feathered eyebrows.

What’s the most common question you get from clients?

A lot of people are looking for help finding the right brow color. We have a brow pencil that actually transforms itself for everyone differently. People don’t want it to look drawn on, and the waxy ones can look too fake, while the powders don’t always provide enough definition. This pencil is a powder technology, so it’s the best of both worlds.

A lot of people are also interested to find out about airbrushed makeup. For most people, I don’t think it’s really worth it to buy it and teach yourself how to use it. You also have to clean it whenever you switch products—going from foundation to blush or eye color. Dior has a foundation called Air Flash, which provides the same effect, and it works for pretty much everyone.

Everyone has days where they can’t make their makeup look right, no matter how hard they try. What recommendations do you have for that?

That happens more often in the winter than the summer, because we tend to lose color. A bronzer can be a great fix, and blush is, too. Use a brighter pink or peachy blush, and concentrate it on your cheeks; but give it a light, quick once-over on your whole face to give your complexion a boost.

Another trick is to use a dark-black eyeliner really close to the lash line. It lightens the whites of your eyes to make you look more awake.

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