Edgewild Restaurant & Winery opened in the fall of 2011 in Chesterfield, and soon developed quite a following in West County and beyond.

The restaurant is located next to Chesterfield Mall in a massive 10,000-square-foot space (formerly Bahama Breeze) accented by muted colors, natural surfaces and exposed wood beams. The overall feel is that of a high-end ski lodge—a really big one. In addition to the main dining areas, there was a bar, tasting area, event rooms and a spacious open kitchen. There was quite a resultant din from all of the activity, making Edgewild a fun place to go with a group of friends, but maybe not the first choice for an intimate dinner.

The menu featured a variety of modern American dishes, and the wine list consisted of a multitude of bottles sourced from vineyards across the country and adorned with the Edgewild label. There also was a selection of Missouri wines from vintners like Chandler Hill and Noboleis, and plenty of other options from across the U.S. and abroad.

On the blustery day of our visit, we eschewed the salads and indulged in cups of two of the featured soups, the Forest Mushroom and Brie ($5) and the Five Onion ($5). The mushroom soup combined shiitake, portobello and oyster varietals in a rich cream sauce; while the Five Onion featured caramelized Vidalias and red and yellow onions, along with shallots and leeks in a beef broth that resulted in a depth and complexity that we've heretofore never tasted in an onion soup.

The Charcuterie ($13) was a savory starter, a tempting plate of cured meat that included chorizo and Genoa salami that was contrasted with a subtly sweet selection of figs, dates and dried apricots. This app paired really well with a glass of 2008 Edgewild Estate Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley.

For the main event, the Bison Meatloaf ($19) proved to be a perfect antidote to the cold weather: two slices of lean meatloaf wrapped in pancetta and served with whipped potatoes and an aromatic rosemary jus. The remainder of our cab proved a fine accompaniment to this main dish, as well.

Edgewild recently introduced a new menu of lighter fare, so we sampled the Scallop and Vegetable Meritage ($22) from that list. This tasty amalgam of four seared scallops surrounded by a dollop of polenta and an array of grilled veggies that included portobello, zucchini, squash and red pepper was both light and filling, and was complemented quite nicely by a glass of 2010 Bin 49 Pinot Noir ($10) from Willamette Valley, Ore.

For dessert, we had the Half-baked Chocolate Chip Cookie ($7), served with a scoop of salty caramel ice cream on top. It was already decadent to begin with, but paired with a glass of 2009 Chandler Hill Crimson Arrow Port ($9), this dessert was absolutely sinful.

Logistically, Edgewild was easily accessible and had plenty of parking, and the level of service we received from the wait staff was a step above, compared to other upscale casual dining restaurants in town.

Editor’s note: Edgewild owners Andy and Dee Kohn and proprietor Chris LaRocca have announced plans to open a second location this summer in the former Busch’s Grove space in Ladue.

Edgewild Restaurant & Winery, 550 Chesterfield Center, 636-532-0550, edgewildwinery.com.

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